Som Tam and the Heat Season Kitchen
March marks the transition to what the Thai kitchen responds to as the hot season — the som tam (papaya salad) culture that is year-round but takes on specific significance when the temperatures rise. The green papaya used in som tam is in March available in its specific March form — the unripe fruit from the central plains harvested at the ideal stage for the julienned raw preparation that the mortar-and-pestle pounding produces. The Isan version (som tam Isan, with fermented fish sauce and crabs) and the Thai version (som tam Thai, with dried shrimp and peanuts) are both at their March best in the street food culture of the Gulf coast towns.
Mango Season Approaching
Mango season in Thailand begins in the south in March — the first Nam Dok Mai mangoes appearing at the Koh Samui and Phuket markets in their ripe yellow form, intensely fragrant and specifically different from the green unripe stage that January used. The khao niao mamuang (mango with sticky rice and coconut cream) that is the most internationally known Thai dessert is in March beginning its seasonal appearance at the market stalls and the retreat kitchens that source locally. Early March mango is still the beginning of the season rather than the peak — the best mangoes come in April and May — but the first ripe specimens of March have a specific freshness that the later peak season volume partially obscures.
Seafood on the Andaman Coast
The Andaman coast in March is in its last excellent seafood month before the monsoon. The fresh prawns, crab, and fish from the Krabi and Phuket fishing boats are in March at their dry season best — the sea calm enough for the small-boat fishing that the storm season prevents, and the market supply at its most varied. The Phuket morning seafood market at Rawai beach pier is in March operating at full capacity: the fishing boats returning at dawn, the catch laid out on the pier, and the surrounding restaurants sourcing the morning’s supply directly.
Northern Herbal Teas and Smoke Season Responses
The burning season in northern Thailand produces a specific herbal response in the local wellness culture — the butterfly pea flower tea (nam dok anchan), the lemongrass and ginger infusions, and the honey and lime drinks that the Chiang Mai cafés and retreat kitchens serve as natural responses to the smoke-irritated respiratory system. The butterfly pea flower tea, which produces a striking blue colour that turns purple with the addition of citrus, is at its most culturally specific in March when the burning season creates the demand for soothing herbal drinks.